Fashions’ biggest night of the year, the Met Gala, took place on the 5th as stars from the screen, the stage, and the song all gathered to display their individual style and the skills of their respective designers. This year’s theme was “Tailored for You,” inspired by the “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” exhibition which opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art this Saturday. According to NPR, the exhibit “highlights how clothing and style is connected to Black identities.” The event’s hosts were Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams. Author Monica Miller was the gala’s guest curator, and took inspiration from her 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.
Black Dandyism is a movement with roots in Enlightenment England, and eventually made its way through the eras into modern pop culture. Key characteristics of the fashion movement involve sharp tailoring, bold colors and patterns, meaningful use of accessories, and influences from all over the world. According to Vogue magazine, “this isn’t just about looking good—it’s a declaration. A defiant reclaiming of space in a world that has long sought to define and confine Black identity.”
As Black dandyism has such a rich history and many important figures, this year’s Met Gala looks have many recognizable influences, from flamboyant capes to gowns that shimmer like liquid gold. These looks are not a simple face-value tribute in name; they each invoke the stories of icons and trailblazers who set the stage that led up to Monday night’s event. The following looks are some of the most notable historical flashbacks of the night.
Andre Leon Talley: Colman Domingo, Tyla, Tessa Thompson
Actor Colman Domingo paid homage to the late fashion icon Andre Leon Talley with his extravagant blue cape with a sequined golden shoulder piece. Talley was the editor of Vogue magazine who broke through the mold with his fashion journalism and his signature caftans, capes, and robes. Talley’s style embodied the Black Dandyism movement by using bold tailored designs that pronounced his presence rather than diminishing it. In his later career, Talley used his influence to advocate for more Black representation in the fashion industry, and eventually across the board. Singer Tyla’s look was inspired by one of Talley’s caftans, and actress Tessa Thompson’s church fan had Talley’s face printed on the outside.
Josephine Baker: Gigi Hadid, Megan Thee Stallion
Artist Megan Thee Stallion and model Gigi Hadid both referenced dancer, singer, and actress Josephine Baker. Baker was the first Black woman to star in a major motion picture as well as be an internationally recognized entertainer. According to Vogue, Baker went on to be the muse of designer Pierre Balmain, the head of the fashion house Balmain. The golden dress worn by Hadid is a close replica of the one worn by Baker, originally custom designed by Balmain. Megan Thee Stallion is featuring one of Baker’s famous hairstyles.
Harlem: Teyanna Taylor
The singer-songwriter, actress, and dancer wore custom Marc Jacobs and teamed up with award-winning designer Ruth E. Carter for her grey and red look that paid homage to the Harlem Renaissance. Two ribbons on Taylor’s suit say “Harlem Rose,” a nod to the city and to her song “Rose in Harlem.” The specific kind of coat Taylor is wearing, a zoot suit, is a specific marker of the Harlem Renaissance times, a symbol of extravagance amidst World war two rationing. It was that rationing that eventually made the suits illegal, and after the war, those who wore them were targets of violence.
According to Vogue, “The Black dandy of the Harlem Renaissance was someone who used dress to assert themselves in a world that often denied them dignity.” Black dandyism as a movement evolved and grew with Harlem, with many influential figures breaking barriers and making their names in the legendary neighborhood. “As we embarked on our journey in this country, we were stripped of everything,” designer Ruth E. Carter said about the look. “A lot of times the only thing you had was to show it on your body.”
Selika Leveski: Jodie Turner Smith
Jodie Turner Smith wore a striking Burgundy leather suit and coat from Burberry, with matching burgundy shoes, a top hat, and minimal jewelry. Smith is drawing inspiration from Selika Lazevski, a Black equestrian from Belle Epoque-era, Paris. Little is known about Lazevski, as most information about her comes from a set of six photographs taken in the studio of Paul Nadar in 1891. At the time, Paris did have circuses and events featuring women equestrians, but little can be said for sure about this elusive but powerful figure.
Diana Ross: Zendaya
While Zendaya’s hit tailored look can be connected to Bianca Jagger (the inspiration behind several other looks on the carpet that evening), it is in fact a tribute to singer and actress Diana Ross’s character Tracy Chambers in the 1975 film Mahogany. Ross herself was also at the Met Gala, making her comeback in a bejeweled gown, feather hat, and 18-foot train. While there is disagreement on whether the look is from Jagger or Ross, According to Vogue, Zendaya declared, “She’s the reference!” in reference to Ross.
Beau Brummel: Jeremy O’Harris
Playwright and Actor Jeremy O’Harris attended the gala in a regency-era dandy look, similar to that of Beau Brummell, the man who the original dandy style is credited to. In O’Harris’ essay written in response to the Met Gala’s theme, he writes, “to me, to be a Black dandy is to dress as though you know you’re loved and therefore have no use for shame. Shame is the enemy of all exuberance. Shame comes from fear, and fear is the enemy of style.”
After the gala, the Met opened up the “Superfine: coloring Black Style” exhibit. According to the Met Museum, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style explores the importance of style to the formation of Black identities in the Atlantic diaspora, particularly in the United States and Europe. Through a presentation of garments and accessories, paintings, photographs, decorative arts, and more, from the 18th century to today, the exhibition interprets the concept of dandyism as both an aesthetic and a strategy that allowed for new social and political possibilities.” The exhibit was curated by Professor Monica Miller.
